How a Syracuse craft brewery is re-creating the iconic 'pre-craft' Congress Beer

Willow Rock Brewing Co. in Syracuse, working with the Onondaga Historical Association, is aiming to launch a new version of Syracuse's historic Congress Beer. These are three experimental versions that will ultimately lead to the final beer.(Don Cazentre)

SYRACUSE, NY -- It's what Rockney Roberts calls a "beer culture clash."

A craft brewer, which prides itself on making bold, big-flavored beers, is setting out to re-create a brew that may have epitomized the pre-craft era of fizzy flavorlessness.

It's what Roberts and Kevin Williams, his partner at Willow Rock Brewing Co. in Syracuse, signed up for, more or less. In conjunction with the Onondaga Historical Association, they're attempting to make a new version of Syracuse's historic Congress Beer.

They're aiming to debut the beer Aug. 15. They're in the midst of experimenting with recipes in consultation with the OHA.

Rockney Roberts, left, and Kevin Williams of Willow Rock Brewing Co. in Syracuse. Willow Rock is working with the Onondaga Historical Association to launch a new version of Syracuse's historic Congress Beer.

Congress was made by Haberle Congress Brewery on Syracuse's North Side, the last survivor of the city's once thriving 19th- to 20th-century brewing industry. It  was last brewed in 1962, so there aren't many people around who remember what it tasted like.

It was the Syracuse equivalent of mid-20th century American lagers ranging from Schlitz to Rolling Rock. Some local rivals survive, like Utica Club from Matt Brewing in Utica and Genesee from Rochester.

In the post-Prohibition era, it was probably brewed, like just about  every other American beer of the day, with "adjunct" grains such as corn or rice, in addition to barley malt.

American brewers made that choice, in part, because corn and rice were cheaper. It also led to pale yellow beers that were light-bodied and, to put it kindly, lacking in robust malt or hop character.

And yet every beer has its own its distinctive aromas and flavors. It's possible Congress had a taste like no other.

That's what Roberts and Williams are trying to re-discover, with some of their craft brewing know-how: A Congress Beer for the 21st Century.

They've brewed at least three different experimental versions, each with a different focus.

Rockney Roberts of Willow Rock Brewing Co, in Syracuse pours a sample of a prototype beer that will ultimately lead to the new Congress Beer. Tasting the beers are board members, staff and supporters of the Onondaga Historical Association.

At a special tasting for OHA board members and other supporters this week, they unveiled a full-bodied and malty blonde ale, an extremely pale and light-bodied ale, and a hoppy, hazy lager.

None of those, ultimately, will be the new Congress Beer. The very pale beer is sort of a "craft Coors Light," Roberts said, while the others highlight different malts and hops. The hoppy lager uses all New York state-grown hops.

"We're playing with the extremes and we'll move to the middle to find the one that's right for us,"  Roberts said. "It needs to have a wide appeal, but still be a beer we're proud to serve."

One thing is certain: The beer will fall within the alcoholic strength range of 4.5 to 5 percent, about the same as a standard Budweiser or Coors today .

Gregg Tripoli, executive director of the OHA, agrees with the idea to make the beer attractive to a wide variety of people.

"Congress Beer is part of our shared history," he said. "So the beer has to be something that appeals to a big cross-section of the beer drinkers in our community."

Tripoli and the OHA announced the plan to reintroduce Congress Beer in February. Over the years, the OHA had acquired many objects and documents related to the Haberle Congress, along with its copyrights and trademarks. Among the many Congress artifacts on display at the OHA museum at 321 Montgomery St. is an 11 1/2-foot-high, 1,500-pound, cast-metal statue of Gambrinus, the "king of beer." It once  hung outside on the Haberle Congress brewery on Butternut Street.

Willow Rock Brewing Co. in Syracuse, working with the Onondaga Historical Association, is aiming to launch a new version of the historic Congress Beer.

Using the copyrights it obtained, the OHA's gift shop has for several years sold T-shirts, glassware and similar merchandise with the Congress Beer label.

But the OHA also has a  "recipe" for Congress Beer, donated by the last Haberle brewmaster when the brewery closed in 1962. That recipe, actually more of a procedure, is a starting point for Roberts and Williams experimentation at Willow Rock.

To follow along with the search for the new Congress Beer,  you'll find examples of Willow Rock's first three experimental brews on tap, in limited quantities, at their brewery/tasting room at 115 Game Road in Syracuse. (That's off Ainsley Drive, behind Danzer's Restaurant).

Williams has named the three experimental beers after once prominent, but now obscure, 19th century members of Congress: McKissock, Birdseye and Bokee. You'll find those alongside Willow Rock's own rotation of craft beers.

"We're only maybe half-way through the process," Roberts said. "So we're still looking for customer feedback on these beers, as we do with all our beers."

Don Cazentre writes about craft beer, wine, spirits and beverages for NYup.com, syracuse.com and The Post-Standard. Reach him at dcazentre@nyup.com, or follow him at NYup.com, on Twitter or Facebook.

If you purchase a product or register for an account through a link on our site, we may receive compensation. By using this site, you consent to our User Agreement and agree that your clicks, interactions, and personal information may be collected, recorded, and/or stored by us and social media and other third-party partners in accordance with our Privacy Policy.