Italy, though it is shaped like a boot, is not a natural vessel for beer. Italians drink wine, and the politicians โ because they, too, drink wine, but also own fields of grapes that make it โ are particularly vicious about the tax rate on breweries. But the biggest hurdle for Italyโs brewers is the simple fact that its drinking culture is inherently tied to food; Italians are not apt to go out to the bar after dinner to have a few pints. Italy consumes the lowest amount of beer per capita of any European nation, and when it has been drunk, itโs as a simple, watery thirst-quencher for field hands.
And yet, here we are in 2017, and itโs a well-known secret in world of international craft brewing: Italy is making some of the best damn beer in the world. In fact, Italian brewers are so savvy about combining the best brewing traditions of Belgium, Britain, Germany and especially the U.S., that it could be said the truest melting pot of craft beer today is not America, but Italia.
โItalians learned about beer from Germans, the British and everybody else,โ says Bryan Jansing, author of Italy: Beer Country, an exhaustive telling of the birth of craft beer there in the โ90s all the way to its explosive success in the mid-2010s. โAnd now theyโre taking Italian beer knowledge and exporting it back to those countries.โ
Thatโs amazing, given that craft brewing was almost nonexistent in Italy before 1996. That was the year that two of Italyโs most longstanding and influential brewers, Teo Musso and Agostino Arioli, began making beer. Musso opened Birreria Le Baladin in Piozzo; Arioli, Birrificio Italiano in Lombardy. They faced the same problems the first American craft brewers had years before. In an email, Musso wrote that the idea of craft beer was โcompletely foreign to the Italian public.โ
โPouring cloudy, warmer and foamy beer almost twenty years ago was a crazy challenge,โ Arioli says. โPeople were used to icy Peroni, poured without any foam.โ
Such hurdles persisted into the late 2000s, even as Italian beer took off in America. Giovanni Campari, the brewer at del Ducato, another widely praised brewery, tried to get his beer sold at a high-end food store in Italy after opening his brewery in 2007. โThey said, โAre you kidding, Italian beer? No โ only German or Belgian.’โ Only after Campari was able to get the same storeโs American outlet to sell his beer would the Italian shop sell it. โYou Americans are more open-minded,โ he says.