Beer Man: Watermelon beer sets the tone for summer

Todd Haefer
For USA TODAY NETWORK-Wisconsin
Bump 'n' Rind

Bump ‘n’ Rind Watermelon Kolsch
Boulder Beer Co., Boulder, Colo.
boulderbeer.com
5.6 percent ABV

Last week’s column looked at how Rodenbach used cherries and elderberries in a beer; this week it's Boulder’s use of watermelon in a kolsch-style beer.

For those not familiar with the kolsch style, it originated in Cologne, Germany, and is an ale, not a lager like most of the beer produced in that country.

It is malt forward with minimal hops and bitterness, and unlike most ales, is cold-conditioned like a lager after fermentation. The traditional kolsch is almost all pilsner malt and while the malt is somewhat intense, it is still a crisp, refreshing beer.

Reissdorf, made in Cologne, is a great example of it if you happen to be lucky enough to live near a liquor store that still takes pride in carrying quality import beers.

I’ve had some decent American-made kolsch beers, but the majority I’ve tried tend to have little malt presence, too much hop flavor and too much bitterness. I really don’t know if this is done on purpose or if the brewers just aren’t good enough to tackle the style properly.

Bump ‘n’ Rind was interesting in how the watermelon was used. It did not have the sweet, juicy flavor of the fruit. There was watermelon aroma and a bit in the taste, but the main influence came across more as the watermelon rind.

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This resulted in a slight tartness that actually worked well in providing a light-on-the-palate summer ale with a bit of pizzazz.

The malt was noticeable in the beer, although it did not have the intensity found in many kolsch beers, especially from Germany. This did keep the beer lighter on the tongue than a typical kolsch, which is fairly light to begin with. According to the Boulder’s web site, it only uses pilsner malt and malted wheat for Bump ‘n’ Rind.

As far as looks, the ale poured a bright gold color and had a great white head with good lacing and retention.

Bump ‘n’ Rind is available through September in cans and on tap and the brewery’s Beer Finder link is at the top of its home page. The brewery has wide distribution in the U.S.

Beer Man sez: Boulder’s mix of watermelon with a kolsch-style beer is more than a novelty act.

Todd Haefer of Scandinavia, Wis., gets paid to drink beer and write about it for Weekend. He can be reached at beerman@postcrescent.com. Read past reviews at www.postcrescent.com/go-920/beer.