Historically speaking, beer has been a 'staple' for like forever | Appleyard

The News Journal pages of recent dates have carried several stories of the coming of new outlets for beer produced and sold in Pensacola. 

One after the other breweries have been established, each laying claim to an audience which preferred a special taste, mellowness or satisfaction. Interestingly, similar stories have appeared in many other cities, while at the same time accounts with a different twist had recorded that the world at large is witnessing a decline in beer drinking.

The major producers, several with their products in many, many locations, continue to report lessened demand. The two trends are in obvious conflict, yet the combination encourages a look back to the enjoyment of beer, in so many ways.

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In some ways even people of yesterday who would seem to be almost total abstainers were instead volume consumers. Why?

Into the 21st century beer is considered a beverage of enjoyment, with consumption often in places where entertainment is in progress. (Watching TV coverage of a major league baseball game may find the camera crews focusing on men and women who are downing sizable snacks, moistened by tall cups of the brew, passed along the aisles by colorfully costumed vendors.)

Some enjoy having a six-pack in front of the home TV as a sports event is presented; other TV ads show beer as a centerpiece as lawn parties are held. In all such cases beer was shown as part of the fun. However, in many parts of its history the usage was quite different.

Looking back to biblical times (or well before), beer was produced as a drinking water substitute. For centuries, tribes, clans, even early civilizations found difficulty in maintaining a water source that was clean and pure. However, beer was — and is — easy to produce, using any number of key items as the basic raw materials. Once made, the beer would withstand time, heat, cold ... and so remain potable.

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One of the best historical interest bits lay with the vessels which transported early settlers from Europe to the colonial shores. Those voyages were long, six weeks or more in many cases, and on such journeys water carried in kegs or casks often would "go bad" and become a cause of illness, thus even such conservative groups as the Pilgrims and Puritans carried large quantities of beer in their transport, and continued to make the brew once they landed.

Beer enjoyment in the United States was expanded further with the arrival of several ethnic groups whose cultures had held beer as important for many years. The Germans  in New York (and then in Milwaukee and Cincinnati) and the Irish (in Boston and Chicago) introduced their own beer versions, and in some cases the brands they produced gained wide usage.

When Prohibition was enacted in 1919, beer in its usual form was declared illegal; however, several larger breweries began crafting what they termed "near beer," with an acceptable low alcohol content. (Such brands were well publicized on radio once baseball was broadcast widely.)

In Pensacola, when Prohibition ended, one of the first new businesses established here was the Spearman Brewing Co., with beer and ales. (It is also fair to note that between 1919 and 1933 there were numerous householders who had large ceramic crocks in their basements and so brewed their own home brand. Some accounts suggest  that the same is the case in 2018 ... with directions for beer making easily available.)

Looking at the presence of beer and how it is — and has been — served, two other anecdotes help illustrate the history. In one, Pensacola's port at one time enjoyed regular visits from commercial vessels delivering or picking up cargo. Periodically the agents serving  the ships arriving from Germany or Mexico arranged luncheons or dinners aboard for "friends of the port." Those fortunate enough to attend such gatherings may still have memories of the fine national brands of beer which such ships carried. On many occasions the captains made much of showing off their prized products.

One other beer memory: At the end of World War II, there were many shortages in Germany. People were desperate for food, and home needs were unavailable. However, in those days just beyond May 1945, the Germans DID have two items available which served them well. The first was turnips (carefully stored in earthen mounds) and beer. Incoming GIs cared little for turnips, but they consumed what can only be remembered as great quantities of the warm German suds.

John Appleyard is a Pensacola historian and writes a weekly historical column in the Pensacola News Journal. His 15-minute films about Pensacola are viewable, without-charge, Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. in The Cottage, 213 E. Zaragoza St.